Salvador: The place that kissed my soul in a divine way
Salvador, Bahia
I finally gathered some of my thoughts about the special feels that Salvador gave me upon my arrival. Energetically the land resonated with my soul in a different way. Christianity is what seems mostly accepted and normalized in America no matter how we talk about it being a melting pot, co-exisiting, and religious freedom. Christianity permeates our politics and tends to be the guidepost for what is considered appropriate in terms of values, family, relationships, any many other facets of life. It bulldozed into countries and communities and told indigenous people they weren’t living in truth. Christianity robbed many people of their original culture and heritage. There is great Christian privilege that exists in America and I am not sure how much Christians consider how this impacts others or if it matters to them.
People, especially black people living in the Bible Belt or more conservative areas often get the side eye when they take interest in or practice any form of spirituality that is not Christianity--even if it is rooted in the practice of their ancestors. Depending on where you live you’ll encounter people trying to evangelize you and save you from “demonic” behavior. You can comment that you are broken-hearted on social media and some Christian may come along and say—you need Jesus. Complain about another issues—and you are told the bad thing happened because you were out of the will of God. There is an element of spiritual intrusion that shows up at times. Interestingly enough--there are remnants of African spiritual practices interwoven into Christianity because our ancestors didn't completely turn from old practices. They just hid them. Many of the Black people who judge African related spirituality unknowingly engage with it in different ways nonetheless. I will always say it saddens me how we were made to hate or fear what is a fiber of our genetic memory and what was a source of connection and pride for our ancestors. I digress...
In Salvador the same was done--Africans were met with colonization and brought into Catholicism. Instead of completely turning their backs on what they knew in Africa the worship of Orishas/Orixas was disguised by pairing them with Catholic saints that were very similar. (That brings up another point for another day--about how there ARE many similarities across cultures and spiritual practices--often different names, descriptions, and narratives attached.)
What I think is beautiful is how the process (syncretism) allowed them to stay in touch with home in ways--just like Hoodoo practices did for many in America. The difference now is that in Salvador they honor the Orishas out LOUD, and they actually have statues coming out of the water representing the Orishas. They have festivals where people get offerings together and take them to the sea for Yemenji. In Salvador they have a variety of churches just like we do in the USA. There are people who go to Mass AND Candomblé--ceremonies. In one of my last blog posts I talked about how there could be room for Christianity AND ancestor veneration or exploring of African Traditional Religions. I have finally figured out why I have been so emotionally moved while on this visit.
It is beautiful for me to just see the way people have reconciled and made space for both spiritual experiences. Of course there are conservative evangelical people who call some of the Afro-Brazilian religions demonic, but they anti-intolerance campaigns exist on an effort to educate people in order to increase pride in their African Identity and religious roots. Seeing what it looks like we truly make room for indigenous ways and honor where we come from even if we blend it with where we are now is liberating. Seeing it done on a larger scale feels affirming and like a hopeful glimpse into the future although I’m not certain America can make room for this type of acceptance and carrying on.
Understanding more about the history of how slavery differed in USA and Brazil has helped me to see why in ways there is less of a disconnect from African culture and pride in Brazil. There’s so much gratitude in my heart for the experiences I’m having and awareness I’m gaining in Brazil. In ways it has made me feel more at home with myself as I have been reconciling what it means to have been raised as Christian in a family with roots that were both indigenous to America and Africa. I have been on my own journey of blending practices and creating a spiritual practice that honors all of me and my genetic memory—not just what colonizers told my people was right. My ancestors show me things in dreams, and I intuitively find my way into learning and practice. Yet, this trip feels like a nod that I am on track from the Divine and like receiving a big ol’ ancestral hug from the many who came before me and had feet that touched Africa.
Está tudo bem com minha alma!
